| Heartworm disease is a preventable But serious and potentially fatal, parasitic disease that primarily affects dogs, cats and ferrets. It also infects wild animals such as foxes, wolves, coyotes, and California Sea Lions. There are documented human infections, but they are thought to be rare and do not result in clinical disease. How is heartworm disease transmitted and what does it cause? Where is heartworm disease found? How can I tell if my pet has heartworm disease? How can my pet be treated? Can heartworms be surgically removed? Can heartworm disease be prevented? A blood test for existing heartworm infection is recommended before beginning a prevention program to confirm that your pet is not already infected with the disease. In addition, annual re-testing is recommended to check your pet's status and ensure that the appropriate medication is being prescribed. Heartworm infections are preventable. Check with your veterinarian today to help ensure that your pet is protected. |
|
|---|
Housetraining Your Dog One aspect that a potential dog owner may worry about is housetraining their new pet. If certain guidelines are followed, this does not need to be a stressful or difficult time. A puppy or dog simply needs your help to understand what is expected of them. Dogs aim to please and it will not take long to teach your dog to be housetrained. One must understand that dogs are certainly not born with any instinct to relieve themselves only outdoors; this is something that must be shown to them with patience and love. The most important elements:
A puppy can hold its elimination 1 hr. per month of age, up to 8 hours maximum. For example:
Besides taking your puppy out according to its maximum waiting time, a puppy should be brought out:
As you will see, the time you will spend bringing your dog outside will lessen as each month goes by. Once your dog is of age, your dog will only need to be brought out three times in a 24-hour period. Choosing a designated area is crucial:
In the event that your dog does not eliminate within 15 minutes, you should bring your dog back into your home. This will ensure your dog will understand what the key phrase is to mean and they will not assume it is playtime. 15 minutes later, repeat the procedure for taking your dog outside. Once a dog has eliminated, it is essential to reward them. Dogs look to their human companions for clues that they are doing good deeds:
The Crate Method. When crates were first launched into the market, some people stereotyped them as being a type of “jail” for the dog. Quite the opposite is true. Most dogs actually enjoy having their own “room” and it gives them a place to retreat for a sense of security. When using the crate method, it will also train your dog to be a better traveling companion, as a crate may need to be used if traveling long distance. Make sure to choose a crate that gives your dog room to stand, turn around and rest comfortably. If your dog shows resistance to the crate there are some steps you can take to make it more tempting:
Gating. A simple way to keep your dog within your sight is the use of baby gates. You will not need these for very long, so we suggest that if you choose to use these it may be best to ask friends or family members if they have one or two that you can borrow. The idea is to just block off certain rooms of your house, this will allow your dog to be able to walk freely but will they will not be able to go far from your sight. If your dog does have an accident in your home, it is vital to remember that it is called an accident for a good reason. How you react to this event will greatly affect your housetraining efforts. If you catch your dog as they are in the process of eliminating in your home:
If you have left your dog home alone and then you come back to find your dog has had an accident, this is most likely a sign that you need to more closely follow the housetraining methods. Possibly, your dog was not taken out at the correct intervals or was left home alone for too long of a time. Alternatively, if this happens often and within short time spans, it may be a sign of illness and you should bring your dog to their vet as soon as possible. It is important to remember that your dog wishes to please you and will never have an “accident” on “purpose”. When finding accidental elimination, again, how you react is crucial:
Once your dog in housetrained, you will be able to simply go about your day and your dog will give you a sign that they are in need of going outside. It is important to take notice of these signs; as they will vary with each dog.
f your dog is small in size and you live in an area that will make outdoor housetraining very difficult, you may choose to train your dog to eliminate into a litter box. Dog liter boxes may be purchased at local pet stores or pet supply sites. You would begin with laying down papers and then graduate into using a litter box. The training methods would be the same for outdoor housetraining. A dog has a natural instinct to mark their territory. Having your dog spayed or neutered can help ease this urge. The most effective way to stop this from happening is to clean the area thoroughly to remove all scent. In time, any marking behavior will end as your dog becomes very understanding of the need to use the designated area. If you have a dog that is suffering from a diagnosed bladder or bowel problem, the use of a Belly Band can offer great assistance. A Belly Band is a fabric that is designed to wrap around the belly a dog. Padding can be inserted inside the band to soak up any urine. The time and effort that you put into training your dog will be well worth it. Every time you take a few moments to bring your dog outside, you will be one step closer to having your dog completely housetrained. Expect a few set-backs, as no dog is perfect, as much as they will try to be loyal and please you. If your dog does have an accident, it is best to pause and think about what may have happened. Perhaps your puppy was given too much freedom to roam your house; perhaps you did not have time to take your puppy outside after they ate dinner. Working together with your dog will be sure to produce successful results. Dog Treat “Greenies” Dangerous Dog. Courtesy of www.petstv.com Dog treats called Greenies are sold in stores everywhere. But Seattle television station KIRO reported that products like them can pose a real danger to dogs. Matthew Balkman of Issaquah, Washington, uses cheese to reward his dog, Beau. He used to use Greenies, which are designed to clean teeth and freshen doggie breath. "The dogs do like 'em. They're tasty; he liked eating them," Balkman said. But last May, Beau acted started acting sluggish after eating one. "He wasn't eating at all," Balkman said. "I took him to the vet, the vet monitored him for a day and said there was something obstructing his bowel, 'We need to go in and operate.'" Dr. Jayne Jensen performed the operation and removed a large green lump from Beau's intestine. "She handed it to me, asked me if I knew what this is, and I said, 'Yes, that's a Greenie,' Balkman said. The package says Greenies are "100 percent edible," but a company spokeswoman told the station they are "85 percent digestible." "That was not 85 percent digestible," Jensen said. "That was not digestible."Constance Odle's dog Berkley is recovering from the same emergency surgery. But instead of a Greenie, a similar product was blocking the dog's intestine. "At first, I thought he ate a piece of a toy, and when the vet told me what it was, I felt terrible guilt because I was the one who gave it to him," Odle said. Berkley is the latest of several dogs Dr. Jennifer McBride has operated on after eating teeth-cleaning products, mostly Greenies. "We will see things in abdomens that will dissolve like bones and, over time, they will dissolve and go away. But these are mostly indisolvable, so they tend to get stuck more often," McBride said.The station discovered the results are sometimes fatal. "I tried to revive her," said Gilbert Wright. Wright lost his prized show dog, "Pompey of the Desert" after feeding him a petite-size Greenies treat. He feels an overwhelming sense of guilt. "And I will feel that way for the rest of my life," Wright said. During its investigation, the station tracked down nine people who claim their dogs died after eating Greenies. KIRO passed that information on to the company. A warning on the Greenies label says to make sure you're giving the right size Greenie for your breed of dog. It also cautions you to "monitor your dog to ensure the treat is adequately chewed". "They don't chew. They don't even have the muscles to chew. I mean, we chew, we do that. Dogs don't do that," said Jensen. "They also say on their Web site to avoid gulping or sloppy eating but, heck, people can't even train their children not to do that," said Gilbert Wright. Company officials with Greenies declined a interview. They sent a statement expressing sadness over all the dogs in the investigation. "Millions of Greenies are sold and enjoyed by dogs, every week without incident," it said. And "though injurious incidents are rare, more often than not, the pet is not fed according to our feeding directions." Gilbert Wright just got a new Pompey, but his heart will always be with the show champion original who won countless awards for agility. Beau has recovered from surgery, and Mathew Balkman feels lucky. "I'm saddened for the people that have actually lost their pets, because we came very close."Vets say nearly all dog treats, chews and toys can make your pets sick. They say it's important to keep a close eye on them. canine influenza The following has been developed via consultation among the American veterinary medical association, the university of Florida, Cornell university, and the US Centers for disease control and prevention, and is advisory in nature. It is intended to answer common questions and to provide guidance on managing affected dogs and for persons working with or handling affected dogs. What is canine influenza?Canine influenza is a highly contagious respiratory infection of dogs that is caused by a virus. The canine influenza virus is closely related to the virus that causes equine influenza and it is thought that the equine influenza virus mutated to produce the canine influenza virus. Two clinical syndromes have been seen in dogs infected with the canine influenza virus—a mild form of the disease and a more severe form that is accompanied by pneumonia.
Do dogs die from canine influenza? How widespread is the disease? How is a dog with canine influenza treated? Is canine influenza virus transmissible from dogs to humans? Do I need to be concerned about putting my dog in day care or boarding it at a kennel? As long as good infection control practices are in place, pet owners should not be overly concerned about putting dogs in training facilities, dog parks, kennels, or other areas frequented by dogs. My dog has a cough...what should I do? Canine influenza virus can be spread via direct contact with respiratory secretions from infected dogs, and by contact with contaminated inanimate objects. Therefore, dog owners whose dogs are coughing or exhibiting other signs of respiratory disease should not participate in activities or bring their dogs to facilities where other dogs can be exposed to them. Clothing, equipment, surfaces, and hands should be cleaned and disinfected after exposure to dogs showing signs of respiratory disease to prevent transmission of infection to susceptible dogs. Clothing can be adequately cleaned by using a detergent at normal laundry temperatures. I manage a kennel/veterinary clinic/animal shelter/dog day care center. How do I keep canine influenza out of my facility, and if it does enter my facility, what should I do? Routine infection control precautions are key to preventing spread of viral disease within facilities. The canine influenza virus appears to be easily killed by disinfectants (e.g., quaternary ammonium compounds and bleach solutions at a 1 to 30 dilution) in common use in veterinary clinics, boarding facilities, and animal shelters. Protocols should be established for thoroughly cleaning and disinfecting cages, bowls, and other surfaces between uses. Employees should wash their hands with soap and water (or use an alcohol-based hand cleaner if soap and water are unavailable) before and after handling each dog; after coming into contact with a dog's saliva, urine, feces, or blood; after cleaning cages; and upon arriving at and before leaving the facility (see "I work in a kennel/animal care facility. What should I do to prevent transmission of influenza virus from infected dogs to susceptible dogs?" ) . Animal care facility staff should be alerted to the possibility that a dog with a respiratory infection could be presented for care or boarding. If a dog with respiratory signs is presented, staff members should inquire whether the dog has recently been boarded or adopted from a shelter, has recently participated in dog-related group activities, or whether it has been exposed to other dogs known to have canine influenza or kennel cough. The dog should be brought directly into a separate examination/triage area that is reserved for dogs with respiratory signs and should not be allowed to enter the waiting room or other areas where susceptible dogs may be present. Dogs with suspected canine influenza virus infection that is discovered after entry into the facility should be evaluated and treated by a veterinarian. Isolation protocols should be rigorously applied for dogs showing signs of respiratory disease, including the wearing of disposable gloves by persons handling infected dogs or cleaning contaminated cages. Respiratory disease beyond what is considered typical for a particular facility should be investigated, and the investigation should include submission of appropriate diagnostic samples (see "What diagnostic tests will tell me whether a dog has canine influenza?" ). What diagnostic tests will tell me whether a dog has canine influenza? What samples do I send? Where do I send the samples? How do I distinguish between canine influenza and kennel cough? Other diagnostic options applicable to dogs that have died from pneumonia are viral culture and polymerase chain reaction ( PCR ) analysis, using fresh (not formalin-preserved or frozen) lung and tracheal tissues. Virus detection in respiratory secretion specimens from acutely ill animals using these methods is possible but generally unrewarding. The Cornell Animal Health Diagnostic Center is currently accepting samples for analysis. For detailed information on sample submission, visit www.diaglab.vet.cornell.edu/issues/civ.asp . For additional information and updates, please visit these websites: The Truth of Spaying and Neutering
We think not, and we don't recommend that children be privy to such heart- break. But we do think that there is something very basic that every adult and child should know: T here are more dogs than homes for dogs, and because of This absolute truth, animals are dying needlessly at the hands of humans every day. Now, what's so natural about that? Min Pin House Training : An email you should read
-------Original Message------- Subject: HELP !! Dear Friends of Penny Min Pin Rescue: I have never owned a Minpin before now. A dear friend of ours is going through a horrible divorce and could not keep two puppies that she had. We agreed to take one because they didn't want to take them to our local shelter. He is approximately 4 months old and whatever we try to do with him he constantly refuses to potty outside or on a pad. He will peepee on his pad sometimes, but not all the time. He never let's us know when he wants to go outside. We have tried EVERYTHING!!! We are just so frustrated!! We love him to death and our 3 yr old daughter has become way to attached to him for us to get rid of him, but if something doesn't change we are going to have to do something. When I found your web site I was hoping that you might could direct me in the right direction of someone that is familiar with Minpin's that could offer me some suggestions as to what to do about him. We love him VERY MUCH, but I can't have him using my den carpet for his toilet!! He is chewing pretty bad on some thing's, but I can handle him chewing rather than him using the bathroom on my carpet. PLEASE send me some kind of suggestion as to what to do with him. I have an appointment next week with his Vet for them to check him for his Neutering surgery. I have high hopes that after he is neutered that he might seem to do a little better about his behavior and training habits. I GREATLY APPRECIATE ANY ASSISTANCE YOU CAN OFFER ME!!! THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!!!!!!!!!!! -------Original Message------- To: XXXXXXXX Subject: HELP !! From: Friends of Penny Min Pin Rescue Hello XXXX I had to smile when I read your email. I can remember back when I rescued my first minpin when he was four months old. He, too, was a handful! I did a ton of research on minpins after adopting one (only after the fact!). I was a bit surprised to find out that his behavior was typical. The best method that I have found for house training is by making good use of a kennel. When you are housetraining, take your furkid outside on a lead and make sure you always go to the same area. By taking him to the same area each time, he will learn what is expected of him when you take him there. As well, it will make for easier clean up :-) When he potties outside, praise, praise, praise him !!!!!!! Treats work exceptionally well to reinforce the behavior. When he comes in give him some free time out of the kennel to run and play. If he does not potty when you take him out, bring him inside and immediately place him in the kennel. After about 15-20 mins., take him back out on the lead and repeat this process as many times as it takes. Please remember to allow him time outside on the lead to do his business. It is easy to get impatient with them when there are other things that you need to be doing, but not allowing him enough time, makes it your fault when he has an accident in the house. Another trick that has worked well for many is to hang a bell by the door. Always use the same door when taking him outside to potty, and when taking him outside, gently take his paw and ring the bell (and praise him for ringing the bell). Most minpins will learn to ring the bell when they want to go outside. Always kennel your furkid when you have to be away (at least until you have established that he understands what is expected of him and he is complying consistently). This will keep him safe and your house safe :-) It is always nicer to come home when there is not a big mess to clean up: makes for a much happier reunion between human and canine. Kennel training is also important, if you ever have to leave your furkid with a sitter since it is much safer for them to be able to kennel them when needed. Please keep in mind that dogs want to please their humans. They do not intentionally want to make you sad or upset. Most potty accidents are the fault of the owners. Owners become busy and forget to pay attention... and the big thing is lack of communication between the two of you. Once they learn what is expected of them, they want to be good, but just like children, they have to be taught. Keeping the pee pad down for him in case he needs to use it, is a good thing also, but just remember.... Praise, Praise, Praise him when he does use it. The happier you are when he does something good, the more he is going to want to do it, just to make you happy :-) There are other training techniques for potty training, but let's just start with this the basics.... if you are consistent, he will be as well. If this does not work... please let me know and we can go into more training techniques. Please keep me updated, feedback on our advice is important.... we need to know what works and doesn't work for most pet owner, in order for us to be more efficient in helping others. Canine Kidney Failure May be Linked to Raisins, Grapes The ASPCA Animal Poison control Center (APCC) is looking into a possible connection between kidney failure in dogs and the digestion of grapes or raisins. A review over the past two years showed 10 dogs with evidence of developing kidney dysfunction after ingesting large amounts of either raisins or grapes, according to the APCC's Jill A. Richardson, DVM. She said she estimated amount of raisins or grapes eater by the dogs ranged between 9 ounces and 2 pounds. The grapes came from grocery stores, vines in private yards or fermented grapes from wineries. The raisins involved were mostly commercial sun-dried raisins of various brands. None of the grapes or raisins ingested came from pet treats or food, Richardson said. Vomiting was reported in all of the dogs and began within the first few hours of ingestion. Anorexia, diarrhea, lethargy and signs of abdominal pain were also reported. After aggressive treatment, which included intravenous fluids and medications, half of the dogs recovered and the others died or had to be euthanized. Because the exact role of grapes or raisins in there cases is still unclear, Richardson said the APCC is working on a study with Colorado State University's College of Veterinary Medicine to determine how the fruit contributed to these dog's sickness and, in some cases, death. When asked if any amount of raisins or grapes would be safe for a dog to consume, Richardson said, "I don't know if there is a safe amount, but until we can find out, In 1999, the Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) noticed a group of dogs that developed kidney failure after eating large quantities of grapes or raisins. Since then, veterinarians have reported more than 250 cases of suspected grape or raisin poisoning. The amount of grapes ingested by these dogs varied considerably. In smaller breeds, such as dachshunds, ingestion of as few as 10 grapes has resulted in kidney failure. The average toxic doses were determined to be 0.7 oz/kg for grapes and 0.1 oz/kg for raisins. That means just one of those small boxes of raisins could potentially make your 20-pound dog very sick. What symptoms were reported? Vomiting usually develops within 24 hours after eating the grapes or raisins. Lethargy, loss of appetite and diarrhea often follow shortly thereafter. Even more concerning, about half of the dogs developed anuria (failure to produce any urine) or oliguria (production of very small amounts of urine) three to five days after ingestion. About 20 percent of the dogs studied also became weak or uncoordinated several days later. The dogs that developed anuria/oliguria or weakness were determined to be 12 to 18 times less likely to survive than those dogs that did not develop these symptoms. Of the dogs studied, about half survived, and 60 percent of the surviving dogs made a full recovery. Since some dogs eat grapes and raisins with apparently no health consequence and other dogs have become very sick after eating only a few grapes, it's obvious that there remains much to learn about the mechanism by which grapes and raisins cause kidney failure as well as the "dose" of grapes and raisins that proves to be toxic to our canine friends. THE FOUR STAGES OF ANIMAL RESCUE PHASES Those of us who work on behalf of and who dedicate our lives to animals go through four phases in our career evolution. As we are unique, so are our individual stories, but we all go through a similar process and, if we survive that process, go on to understand that we wanted to be here in the first place. PHASE ONE Red hot and raring to go, we are out to change the world. We are high on life. We know we can make a difference, that our efforts on behalf of animals will ease their plight. We work what seems like 25 hour days yet are energized. Our enthusiasm overflows, our capacity for challenge is limitless. We eat, sleep and live in the cause for animals. Our friends don't understand our obsession and turn away or just fade away, and we let them for we meet new ones. Some of us, though, don't make new friends; we're too busy working for animals. Some of us become loners with only our canine or feline companions to keep us from total isolation. We're content because we have a cause. In our zeal, we tend to affix simple solutions to complex problems, that every animal should be sterilized or that no animal should be euthanized, we are late to appointments because we try to rescue animals from highways and streets. We think we understand the problem and we know we can fix it if only people would get out of our way. PHASE TWO Our Phase One enthusiasm has turned sour, the bubble has burst and we crash and burn. We see the same people coming into the Shelter with yet another litter--they haven't heard our message. We continue to euthanize , there seems to be no end to it. Even our friends, those we have left, don't understand us. We can't seem to reach anyone. Animals are still abused and neglected, their plight seems unchanged despite all our efforts. We have lost the boundless energy that characterizes Phase One. We have become horrified by the work we have to do. Even our dreams are filled with the horror. Every animal we take in, every animal we euthanize is yet another nail in our coffin of defeat. Somehow, we are to blame for our failure and it is destroying us. We raise an emotional shield to protect ourselves. Our shield gets thicker and thicker. It blocks the pain and sadness and makes our life somehow tolerable. We continue on because every now and then we get a spark of Phase One energy. PHASE THREE In this phase, our Phase Two depression has turned outward and we're mad as hell. Hopelessness turns to rage. We begin to hate people, any people, and all people unless, like our coworkers, they dedicate their lives to animals the way we do. We even hate our coworkers if they dare to question us, especially about euthanasia. It occurs to us to euthanize the owners, not the pets. Let's take everyone who abuses (or even surrenders) animals and euthanize them instead. Our rage expands to our out-of-work life. That guy in front of us on the highway, the one who is in our way, euthanize him. We rage at politicians, television, newspapers, our family. Everyone is a target for our anger, scorn and derision. We have lost our perspective and our effectiveness. We are unable to connect with life. Even the animals with whom we come into contact seem distant and unreal. Anger is the only bridge to our humanness. It is the only thing that penetrates our shield. PHASE FOUR Gradually, and over time, the depression of Phase Two and the anger of Phase Three become replaced with a new determination and understanding of what our mission really is . It is "big picture time." We realize that we have been effective locally and, in some cases, even regionally and nationally. So, we haven't solved the problems. Who could? But, we have made a difference for dozens, even hundreds and sometimes thousands of animals. We have changed the way others around us view animals. We begin to see our proper place in our own community and we begin to see that we are most effective when we balance our work and away-from-work lives. We realize that work is not our whole world and that if we pay attention to our personal lives, we can be more effective at work. We understand that some days we work 14 hours and some days we knock off after only 8 hours. We take vacations and we enjoy our weekends. We come back refreshed and ready to take on daily challenges. We see that all people are not all bad. We understand that ignorance is, in most cases, curable. Yes, there are truly awful people who abuse and neglect animals, but they are in the minority. We don't hate them. When we find them, we do all we can to stop them from hurting animals. We recognize that the solutions are just as complex as the problems and bring a multitude of tools to the problems at hand. We use them any way we can, and begin to see the results one small step at a time. We reconnect with the animals. Our shields come down. We understand that sadness and pain are a part of our job. We stop stuffing our feelings with drugs, food or isolation. We begin to understand that our feelings of anger, depression and sadness are best dealt with if we recognize them and allow them to wash over and past us . We recognize our incredible potential to help animals. We ARE changing the world. Some people seem to get frozen in Phase One (the zealots), or in Phase Two (the zombies) or in Phase Three (the misanthropes -- haters or distrusters of mankind). Others shift back and forth. Many leave animal work during Phase Two or Phase Three, never to return. Some seem to move rapidly to Phase Four, while for others it takes years. Some never get a sense of peace to go along with our purpose; they work their entire career on the frantic pink cloud of Phase One, or depressed or angry. I have been in all four phases in my 26 years in animal protection. Can the journey from Phase One to Phase Four be sped up? Can we avoid the pain, discomfort and agony that go with the journey? I wish I knew. By Douglas Fakkema ( reprinted from the " Mazer Report")
|
|---|
©2008